Monday, February 10, 2014

First one. Training. Getting back in shape. First season comps...

So. Decided to create and start writing my own blog. Hopefully you'll enjoy reading it. I want to apologize in advance for all the grammar mistakes I will make.
'Three sacred approaches' (Dave Barrans)
For the first one decided to write more about my own training.

The whole January I was doing lots and lots of endurance training because I usually take the whole December off to rest and to let my self enjoy all the junk food there is in the world. First two weeks of January I did shorter trainings (2h-2,5h) but more often (4-5 times a week) but I didn't seem to make any improvement and was still struggling on V8's and harder... didn't even go to the 'tough boys' training room, simply couldn't do any campusing or climb on beastmaker.


After that decided to change it up a bit. Longer trainings with at least one day of rest in between climbing days. Trainings: warm up, then campus boarding (currently doing 2-4,5-7 and trying to improve on locks), then go out and just enjoy crushing boulders. At first only climbed V6-7's simply because I was soooo tired already after campusing... But now finally can crush depot's yellows or do some 'beastmakering'. After that I would go on fingerboards - pull ups, triceps (would do some rings training as well, but they are gone at the moment), and finally 15min hanging session. (all in all around 4 hours)  And this system helped my sooo much more than the previous one! Finally again feeling strong and ready to squeeze the hell out of holds. Psyched! And how much happier I am overall, life simply colors it self. I'll continue doing this for another month or so. Then will be time to mix it up with more strength exercises. Trying to do lots of kardio on non-climbing days, so either go to frisbee training or go out around Bradford, but its slightly too chilly, caught a cold last week
  

First season comp. Overall would say did pretty well, wasn't happy with the 21-22nd place, but considering it's the first one in 2014, it is alright. Manchester RockOverClimbing wall is quite good, but not to host such a HUGE qualification round. Had 'only' 3 hours (for 25 boulders) but felt like 1.5 with queuing on every single problem. Scored 190 points. Could say I 'lost' 20 on not flashing easy ones with silly mistakes such as foot slips, not being so precise and rushing too much.. And score 210 made the finals... But it is ok, it's all learning process, trying not to take it too seriously and just enjoy it all, learn from my mistakes, meet people and appreciate things that I do and what surrounds me. Shout out to organizers of Rockfest, despite poor qualys, because the finals were AMAZING. Would say top 3 of all the ones that I been to. They most certainly the created the atmosphere they were aiming to create.. the lighting, music, speaker/announcer building up the anticipation and routesetting. WOW! As always got back home with the HUGE smile on my face wanting to go back to the dusty 'Depot' and push even harder.

Took some photos of finals ---> ROCKFEST 2014

Next weekend London baby! Blockfest! cant wait to crush it there with fellow Lithuanians - Arta, Vaidas and Mindaugas!

If you have any questions/notes for my training will be more than happy to answer/listen. I'll try to cover my nutrition on second post


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